IV
Skagway, The Yukon
and Carcross
Sunday morning our ship docked at Skagway, Alaska where
we disembarked and walked to our waiting vans in which we were
going to drive to the Yukon Territory and Carcross.
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We pause at the border of Yukon Territory long enough
to take some pictures and then continue towards Carcross.
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Jen, Brad, Bradley, Katie and Cheryl. |
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This is the little park next to the museum at Carcross. |
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From the time the first prospectors came over the
Chilkoot Pass, this place was known as Caribou Crossing
because of the large herds of caribou that crossed the narrows
between Bennett and Tagish Lakes twice a year on their annual
migration. Artifacts of aboriginal people--flaked stone tools
estimated to be 4,500 years old--have been found here.
Following the discovery of Klondike gold in 1896, it
became a popular stopping off place for stampeders in their
migration to and from the gold fields of Dawson City. For a
short time it had the largest sawmill in the territory...owned
by Mike King...who also built boats and scows for the gold rush
trade from early 1897.
In late May of 1898, the North-West Mounted Police
counted 778 boats under construction at Lindeman Lake, 850 in
Bennett and the surrounding area, and another 198 at Caribou
Crossing and Tagish Lake. It was further estimated that another
1,200 boats were built in these areas over the next few weeks.
In addition to being a minor boat building centre,
Caribou Crossing was also a station for the Royal Mail and the Dominion Telegraph Line, and it served as a
communications point on the Yukon River.
From the tent towns that sprung up in the area, several
prominent hotels emerged. The Caribou Hotel was built here in
1898. and still enjoys the distinction of being the oldest
operating hotel in the territory. In 1899 Fred Trump,
grandfather of millionaire playboy Donald Trump, and his partner
Ernest Levin, opened a restaurant in a tent at Bennett, which
they called the Arctic. Trump and Levin fed their customers well
and, before the year was out, they replaced their tent with a
two-storeyed building that offered food and sheltered
accommodations. When the White Pass & Yukon Route railway
threatened to draw business away from the old trail, Trump and
Levin floated the Arctic to across from the Bennett depot. When
the partners later relocated to Whitehorse, their hotel was
burned.
When the gold rush subsided (1901), Anglican Bishop
William Bompas moved his headquarters here from Forty Mile, and
established a school for Indian children. Two years later he
petitioned the Canadian government to change the name of Caribou
Crossing to the abbreviated Carcross. This was due to
frequent mix-ups in mail delivery with communities in
Alaska,B.C. and other Yukon settlements with similar names.
During construction of the White Pass Railway, tracks
were laid north from Bennett and south from Whitehorse. They met
at Carcross, which hosted the "last spike" ceremony on July 29,
1900, linking Skagway with Whitehorse over a distance of 110
miles. The Carcross area is part of Skookum Jim's land.
Carcross-Tagish people remember his deal with the railway,
probably the first land claims deal of its kind in the
territory. After gaining fame for his role in the discovery of
gold in the Klondike, Jim gave permission for the railway to
build across his land in exchange for jobs for people in his
community. While railway construction was under way in 1899,
gold was discovered in the Atlin district in northern B.C. and
another stampede occurred. All the gold seekers, goods and
services destined for Atlin went through Carcross.
Silver and gold were first discovered in the Windy Arm
area of Tagish Lake in July 1899, which sparked an intensive
mining era in this section of the Yukon. American mining
promoter Col. John Howard Conrad had acquired control of most of
the newly-discovered gold-silver-lead deposits. By 1906 the
boomtown of Conrad employed more than 200 miners. It included
stores, churches, hotels, restaurants, baths and laundry, a post
office, a mining recorder's office as well as regular steamboat
service at Carcross. Conrad's most ambitious accomplishment was
construction of a tramline to carry ore down from the mine on
Montana Mountain. It rose 3,700 feet, extended for four miles
and cost $75,000 to build. The average miner was earning $3.50 a
day. The sternwheeler "Gleaner" provided steamer
service between Conrad and Carcross.
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The S.S. Tutshi made regular stops at Engineer Mine to
deliver supplies and transport ore to the train in Carcross
shown above in 1924...and its burned remains below at the
museum.
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Come on! It's time to giddy-up 'n go... |
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Back at Skagway browsing downtown. When gold was
discovered in 1896, in a tributary of the Klondike River, the
town grew to 20,000 residents. What some of the gold seekers
went through is unbelievable and tragic, but they kept coming.
By 1900, the White Pass and Yukon Route railway began carrying
the more fortunate over the mountain pass.
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A couple of wolf rugs stare out the window
at the fur store. I don't think I want one.
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This huge cliff painting of a watch is catching. My camera
brought it in fairly well.
It's time to get back to our ship.... |
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And head for the dining room. |
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A bearded fisherman offers Vicky and Mel an hors
d'oeuvre, but they prefer to wait for dinner.
It's been another wonderful day of adventure.
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